Scott has wanted to visit Varanasi ever since his first trip to India 14 years ago, and come hell or high water we were going to make it there on this trip! Well, there wasn’t high water but there was a bit of hell – in the form of cancelled train tickets – but we eventually made it to Hinduism’s most holy city one hectic bus ride and last-minute flight later.
For us, Varanasi represented the soul of India – the place many Hindus come to be married, to be blessed in the Ganges, and – most importantly – to be cremated. Why? Hindus believe that if a person is cremated here, with their remains placed in the Ganges River, that their soul will be freed from the endless cycle of reincarnation and they will finally be at peace. When we told our tuk tuk driver in Agra that we were coming here, his response was “Oh, I hope to die in Varanasi”. That sounded a little strange at the time, but now we get it!
Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world, with artifacts dating back to at least 1800 BC. It’s home to amazing temples, cobblestone streets, and intense markets. The colors are vibrant and beautiful. It’s also one of the most harried, dirty, and harassing places we’ve ever been, overrun by Indian tourists (and a few white folks too), cows, and cow dung. It was so intense, in fact, that while we were glad to have made it here, we were also very happy to leave after just two nights.
Getting There
The two main ways to get to Varanasi are by train and plane. If you plan to take the train, book your ticket through India Railways ahead of time and make sure your have a confirmed seat. We had planned to take the overnight train from Agra, but our seats were never confirmed and we ended up taking an Air India flight at the last minute from New Delhi (thanks miles!). The more reasonably priced SpiceJet flies here as well, and we took their direct flight to Mumbai at the end of our time in Varanasi.
Things to Know
A few tips for enjoying Varanasi:
- Just say “no” to hawkers, and say it strongly. We couldn’t walk 5 feet without being offered a boat ride, marijuana, or a trip to see a silk shop. In one instance, a teen started walking with us because, as he said, “I enjoy speaking English and want more American friends”. We could smell the scam, but literally could not shake him. He told us a bit about the city, walked us by a temple, and then demanded payment for being our tour guide. Ah, India!
- Be prepared for a full assault on the senses. There’s no beating around it, Varanasi is dirty. Garbage is often thrown on the streets and there is cow dung everywhere – sometimes right next to the fresh vegetables being sold on the street (only eat cooked vegetables!). So, watch your step – and book the nicest accommodation you can in order to have a respite from the craziness. You’ll thank yourself later.
- It’s really hot. Like, really really. This applies to all of India, but Varanasi is both hot and humid. It’s a walking city, so bring lots of water and sunscreen. Double-check your hotel has air-conditioning too.
- Don’t swim in the Ganges! While you may be tempted to bathe in the Ganges (Scott was), just don’t do it. The water is so polluted it can hardly sustain life, and more than one tourist has fallen victim to giardiasis. When Scott was most contemplating taking the plunge he saw a giant dead fish floating in the water and took it as an omen. Put a foot or a hand in instead.
What to Do
Explore the Narrow, Ancient Streets and Steep Ghats
One of the best ways to experience life in Varanasi is to get lost (but not too lost) in the ancient streets and steep ghats (ghat = the steps leading to the Ganges). Built long before cars were invented, all the streets are just narrow enough to walk or motorcycle through. Beware the cows, and beware even more the cow dung. We never felt unsafe here, but would recommend doing most of your exploring during the day.
A Sunrise Boat Ride on the Ganges
One of the things we enjoyed most was an early morning boat ride on the Ganges River. Before the sun even comes up the city starts to come alive as women go to the river to wash clothes, and people come to swim in the river for their morning bath. The scene is beautiful and peaceful and is a ritual that has gone on for thousands of years.
Dashashwamedh Ghat
Dashashwamedh Ghat is Varanasi’s liveliest and most colorful ghat. Vendors selling souvenirs, vegetables, flowers, and incense line the stairs leading to the water. This is also a popular place for wedding processions, which are colorful and always have great music. The ghat is famous because it is said that the God Brahma sacrificed ten horses here; we didn’t see any horses but we did see goats and cows!
Aarti Ceremony
The most beautiful ceremony in Varanasi is the nightly Aarti Ceremony held at the Dashashwamedh Ghat. Young priests offer burning lamps and incense to the gods while ringing bells and singing songs of praise. The ceremony happens every night at around 7pm, is free, and lasts about an hour. We watched the ceremony from the ghat, but renting a boat and watching from the river is also very popular.
Manikarnika Ghat
Manikarnika Ghat, the burning ghat (with a fire that is said to have been burning continuously for thousands of years), is the most auspicious place for a Hindu to be cremated. Hindus from all over the world have their bodies sent to Varanasi, where funeral pyres burn 24 hours a day. The ashes and bones are then thrown in the river below. It’s fascinating to watch this process unfold, yet another example of a tradition here that has gone on for thousands of years.
*Note that is considered offensive to take photos near the burning site – only take them from a distance.
Priest Blessing on the Ganges
While walking along the ghats on the Ganges River you’re likely to be approached by priests asking if you’d like a blessing. Scott did it, and while he loved it, it’s important to note they’re not real priests. They ask for a donation based on whatever you can give.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple
Kashi Vishwanath Temple is the most famous temple in Varanasi, dedicated to the god Shiva. We visited on a Hindu holiday and the temple was packed with people giving their offerings, and had a line stretching for hours. We were able to squeeze in (foreigners get to skip the line – lucky us!) but because it’s a holy Hindu site no photos are allowed inside.
Where to Eat
It’s funny – every time we asked locals for restaurant recommendations they pointed us toward pasta shops. They assumed we didn’t like Indian food, which couldn’t be further from the case! We were happy to eventually be directed to Madhur Milan Cafe, which is cheap, popular with locals, and delicious. We ate there twice, and would have gone back again if we’d had more time!
Rihana says
Oh god, Varanasi is really too much beautiful, I wish to be there.
thelinetrek says
A very beautiful (and spiritual) place.