Hi, it’s Scott! I was super excited to head to Madrid, not only to explore the city but also to see our friend Losida who has been living in Spain for the past two years. She has a great handle on the layout of the city as well as the many nuances of living in Spain, and she was able to provide me with a truly local experience. Unfortunately John had to head back to the states for a couple of weeks for family reasons, so I was left to explore Madrid on my own. While I missed John (John: you had better say that!) I was still able to have quite a bit of fun on my own, as you’ll see below.
First, A Few Local Pointers
Here are a few tips our friend Losida sent our way before we arrived:
Spanish Greetings
Whenever you enter a shop, restaurant or establishment say a hearty and friendly “Buenos Dias” or “Hola” (or Buenas Tardes if it’s after 4pm). And when you leave, say “Adios” or “Hasta Luego”. I can’t express how important this is – it’s considered rude if you don’t do this. “Please” and “Thank you” aren’t that important in Spanish culture, leaving many foreigners to think the locals are rude. Conversely, the Spanish find foreigners quite rude because they enter without acknowledging that a human is present.
Eating Times
Spain and Argentina are the only two countries (to my knowledge) that eat this way, but it can be a shock to foreigners. Basically, lunch is the huge meal of the day and usually starts at around 2pm and lasts for two hours. Around 5pm or 6pm they will have a sweet snack accompanied by coffee. Dinner is a medium sized meal served between 9:30pm and midnight. In Madrid you can find somewhere to eat at any time of day since it’s an international city, but in other parts of Spain you will find most restaurants closed outside of Spanish eating hours.
Where to Stay
I stayed in an awesome Airbnb in the La Latina neighborhood of Madrid and it was perfect. The narrow streets were filled with restaurants, shops, and impressive fruit stands; I’ve never had nectarines so perfectly ripe! But the best part about staying in this neighborhood was the El Rastro flea market that takes place every Sunday from 8am to 2pm. Vendors pack the streets and sell everything from vintage t-shirts to antique cameras; you can easily spend hours wandering. Oh, and by American and most European standards, lodging in Madrid is very reasonably priced.
Things to Do
Mercado San Miguel
Spain is known for its food markets and Mercado San Miguel is by far the most famous, but also the most touristy. It’s a beautiful glass-enclosed market that’s worth a stop for a photo, though the prices are a bit on the expensive side. If you’re hungry, you’d be better off going to one of the other, more local, markets (see below).
Mercado San Fernando
Which brings us to Mercado San Fernando. You won’t find many tourists at this market but it can get pretty busy with locals – a sign of a good market! As Losida says, “For the most part it’s no frills with good food at a reasonable price”, which is kinda perfect.
Circulo Bellas Artes
Madrid has some great rooftop terraces and Circula Bellas Artes is by far Losida’s favorite, and now mine as well! It has one of the best views of the city and is very popular with locals. It costs 5 euro to go up to the roof, and then drinks are on top of that. Head up for sunset – you won’t regret it.
Retiro Park
This beautifully manicured park is a must visit when in Madrid. Whether you want to explore the large park, have a picnic, or just nap under a tree, Retiro Park is worth your time. Be sure to check out the Monument to Alfonsa XII (a massive monument on an artificial pond), the Crystal Palace (a building almost made entirely of glass), and the Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez (peacocks roam here!).
Royal Palace of Madrid
The Royal Palace of Madrid and the Almudena Cathedral make a nice one-two stop right in the heart of Madrid. The Royal Palace, built from 1738-1755, is the largest royal palace in Europe and is the official home of the Spanish monarchy (though they now choose to live in a more modest palace on the outskirts of Madrid). You can pay to go inside a limited area of the palace, but I choose to save the Euros and instead visited the cathedral, which is free.
The more recently built Almudena Cathedral began construction in 1879, was paused during the Spanish Civil War, re-started in 1950, and then finally finished in 1993. It went through numerous architects, resulting in a unique structure that some believe is the ugliest cathedral in Europe (I’m really selling this, right?). Hey, it’s cool and it’s free – check it out.
Sandeman’s Walking Tour
Another European city, another Sandeman’s Free Walking Tour – one of my favorite activities. Like all of the others, this one did not disappoint. The tour provides a quick history of the Spanish royal family, an overview of the Franco dictatorship, and finally covers details about the current democratic government. The walk gives participants a great feel for the layout of the city and uncovers a few hidden gems that would be hard to find on your own. The tour starts in Plaza Mayor, one of Madrid’s tourist hotspots, which is great for a picture.
Day Trips
I went to Segovia for the day and had a great time – stay tuned for a seperate blog with details on how to plan your visit.
Museums
I was surprised by the number of great art museums in Madrid, finding it second only to Paris in the quantity and quality of art. While there are so many to choose from, I visited three that I really enjoyed, found below.
Museo del Prado
Museo del Prado is by far Spain’s largest and most touristed museum. It has tons of classic art which can be fascinating to some (like me) but also a bit stuffy to others (John wouldn’t have loved it). Some of Spain’s most famous artwork can be found here.
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia
The Reina Sofia Museum was recommended by Losida as her favorite museum in Madrid, and it’s definitely mine now too. It has a great collection of modern art including trippy pieces by Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso’s famous Guernica. Plan to spend a few hours here as there is a good amount of ground to cover.
Thyssen-Bonemisza Museum
Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum is free on Mondays between 12pm and 4pm and that is the main reason I went, though I was pleasantly surprised by the vast collection of modern art. This private museum has great pieces by some of the most famous French, Italian, and American painters – and some Spanish ones too! If you start at the top of the museum and work your way downstairs it’s like a tour of art through the ages up to modern times.
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