The most popular tourist spot in Montenegro is Kotor Bay, and we had long-planned to make a stop there. We couldn’t leave the country without visiting the mountains, however, especially given that the country’s name translates to “Black Mountain”. As we were figuring out the details of our trip we happened upon a New York Times Article named Returning to Montenegro, which provided some great ideas overall and one very specifically: Durmitor National Park. The park is the largest of Montenegro’s five national parks and is home to 50 peaks above 6,000 feet. It seemed like the perfect spot for us to explore and get our mountain high.
We decided to base ourselves out of Žabljak, which is Montenegro’s premier ski area and thus has fairly cheap lodging in the off-season (we were visiting in early autumn). The town is tiny, with a population of about 2,000, and is the gateway to both Durmitor National Park and to Tara Canyon, Europe’s deepest canyon. There are many outdoor activities to be found around here, and we decided ours would be a hike to the top of Bobotov Kuk.
At 8,278 feet Bobotov Kuk is the highest peak in Durmitor and one of the highest in Montenegro. On a clear day, the top provides views of three other countries: Bosnia & Herzegovina, Serbia, and even far-off Albania. With beautiful limestone peaks, a treeless landscape, bright green grass, and massive piles of eroded loose rock (scree) this hike is considered to be Montenegro’s ultimate, and it didn’t disappoint.
How to Hike Bobotov Kuk
The shortest and easiest way to hike Bobotov (and don’t let the word “easiest” fool you) is the return trip from from the Sedlo parking lot. The drive from Žabljak to the parking lot takes about 25 minutes and entails driving on some one-lane, winding roads with no guardrails; but hey, it’s all part of the experience! The cost for parking / entry is about 3 euros and there’s usually an attendant waiting in the parking lot to collect payment.
The actual hiking route takes 5-6 hours round-trip and mostly follows a well-marked path (follow the x’s). The last hour goes up a steep ascent and the final stretch can be a bit vertigo inducing – it requires clinging to the rocks and a steel rope near the edge of a very high cliff. This may seem terrifying (and for a moment or two it was), but we felt safe the entire way. The hike rewards you with a breathtaking view at the top, where you’ll want to spend some time taking it all in – and maybe eating a good lunch. There’s a little metal box at the peak with a book where you can write a little note about your journey.
Two Alternate Routes
The longest route to the top of Bobotov Kuk, which we didn’t do, goes round-trip from Žabljak and is anywhere from a 10-12 hour return hike. As we did this hike in the fall when the days are shorter (12 hour days), we opted for the shorter version to avoid being stranded in the dark. Most of the online reviews we read did not recommend this lengthy route, especially noting a dangerous long stretch through some very loose and steep rocks.
A second alternative route is to start from the Sedlo parking lot and then hike your way back to Žabljack. This route takes between 8 and 10 hours. You can arrange a taxi to take you to Sedlo.
All three options are well marked and easy to follow (we’ve heard), but since we didn’t do either of these last two hikes we recommend you do a bit of research before making the attempt.
Like all other hikes, be sure to bring plenty of water and wear a good layer of sunscreen; if it’s sunny it’s a good idea to bring a pair of polarized sunglasses as the white rocks reflect the sun and there’s absolutely no shade. Weather here changes quite rapidly so be sure to bring a warm jacket and a rain jacket as well, even if it’s sunny when you leave. You’ll be hiking on some unstable terrain so a decent pair of hiking boots is recommended.
Where to Stay
We found a great guest house within walking distance of the “city center” (labeling it a “city center” may be a stretch) on booking.com and we couldn’t have been happier. Žabljak City Center Apartments was perfect and the host, Rajko made sure our stay in Žabljak went off without a hitch. He provides free breakfast every morning and also makes a great and very affordable dinner. We got lots of free shots of homemade schnapps (so strong!), which he seemed to love providing us. It’s possible he was just looking for an excuse to take a few himself :).
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